From the mysterious waters of Loch Ness to historic castles, private falconry displays and the stirring sound of a Scottish piper, a luxury hotel barge cruise through the Highlands offers a wonderfully different way to discover Scotland.
There are many ways to explore the Scottish Highlands, but few can match the intimacy, comfort and sheer pleasure of travelling aboard a luxury hotel barge. My wife and I spent a week aboard European Waterways’ Spirit of Scotland, cruising from Muirtown, near Inverness, to Banavie, close to Fort William, and enjoying spectacular scenery, fascinating excursions and exceptional hospitality.
Our journey followed the Caledonian Canal, linking a succession of beautiful lochs and waterways through the heart of the Highlands. We slowed down, enjoyed the landscape and discovered a side of Scotland often missed when travelling by road.
Life aboard Spirit of Scotland began with a wonderful champagne reception, immediately setting the tone for the days ahead. Unlike a conventional cruise ship, a luxury hotel barge offers a much more intimate atmosphere. With a small number of fellow passengers, there is time to get to know one another, share stories over dinner and enjoy the feeling of being part of a private travelling party.
The accommodation and onboard surroundings combined comfort with luxury. Between excursions, we could settle back and watch the Highland scenery unfold, enjoying the changing views of wooded hillsides, rugged mountains and peaceful stretches of water.
Food and drink were very much part of the experience. Meals were a highlight, breakfast, lunch and dinner, with delicious dishes providing a taste of the region and a welcome opportunity to sit down together. Lunches and dinners were accompanied by fine wines and became sociable occasions in their own right.
With just six cabins for up to 12 guests, the barge has an exclusive, almost private-yacht feel. Each cabin is situated on the lower deck and has a choice of twin or double beds, an en-suite shower room and storage space, providing a comfortable retreat at the end of a busy day exploring.
The main deck is where much of the social life takes place. The spacious bar and lounge, with its comfortable seating and large picture windows, is an inviting place to relax and watch the scenery glide past. There is a separate dining area for enjoying the chef’s excellent meals, while the well-stocked bar is available around the clock, making it easy to enjoy a drink whenever the mood takes you.
At the front of the lounge is the wheelhouse, where the captain navigates the barge through the canals, locks and lochs. Its position gives guests a fascinating view of the route ahead and a chance to see something of the skill involved in steering this long vessel through the waterways.
Above the large upper sun deck was a great place to make the most of the Highland scenery. Whether relaxing on a sun lounger, enjoying the fresh air or simply watching the mountains and lochs pass by, it offered a wonderful outdoor vantage point. There is also a heated spa pool and a covered outdoor dining area.
For those who prefer a little activity, bicycles are available on board, allowing guests to cycle along the towpath and re-join the barge at the next lock or mooring.
The friendly crew comprised a captain, a cruise director who coordinated the daily programme and excursions, two hostesses and a deck hand. Together they provided attentive personal service that helped make our week so enjoyable.
The Spirit of Scotland combines small-ship intimacy with first-class luxury, offering elegant cabins, a convivial lounge, an open bar and wonderful Highland views.
Excursions are an integral part of the experience, with a private chauffeured minibus providing comfortable transport to places of historical and cultural interest.
Our first major outing took us to Cawdor Castle, a fascinating historic property associated with Scotland’s rich heritage. With its traditional architecture, gardens and centuries of stories, it provided a wonderful introduction to the castles and history that would feature throughout our journey.
At Fort Augustus, we explored more of the region’s dramatic past with a visit to Culloden Moor, the site of the 1746 Battle of Culloden. Standing on this evocative battlefield brings home the significance of the Jacobite uprising and the events that helped shape Scotland’s history.
Another memorable experience awaited us at Kytra, where we enjoyed a superb falconry and birds of prey demonstration. Seeing these magnificent birds at up close was a real highlight, offering an opportunity to appreciate their extraordinary abilities and the skill involved in handling them.
As we continued along the Caledonian Canal, the changing scenery became an attraction in itself. The waterway offers a wonderful views of the Highlands. At Laggan, where we stopped for the night, we were greeted by a Scottish piper. The stirring sounds of traditional Scottish music captured the spirit of the journey perfectly.
We also visited Eilean Donan Castle, one of Scotland’s most famous landmarks. Surrounded by water and dramatic Highland landscapes, this striking stone fortress looks straight out of a movie. In fact, it featured prominently in Highlander and the James Bond film ‘The World Is Not Enough’.
As our cruise approached Banavie, near Fort William, there was still time to enjoy a visit to the Ben Nevis Whisky Distillery…
